Winch elastic

[Doug Wotring]

What is the standard length for the tension elastic on a winch system. I have seen them run to the rudder post and have also seen them run around the rudder post and forward again?

[PaulP]

Doug,
I originally installed mine from the "ring" to the rudder post. I found there was too much difference in the tension from full in to full out.

I then looped a longer length around the post and anchored it near the base of the winch. It almost doubled the length of the elastic. I found the tension to be more constant and not as tight when the ring pulled forward

If you're a mechanical guy, the length of the cord affects the spring rate (lbs per inch), the diameter of the cord affects the spring tension. (max lbs that can be generated).

Hope this helps

Paul P

[PegLeg]

Doug

The other reason for moving the elastic anchor point forward is to give you good access to unload the elastic between regattas. Unloading will increase the life of the elastic and maintain the elasticity range for more than one season.

The tension does not have to be very much. The only purpose is to keep the line from jumping off the winch [}:)]drum. The longer the elastic the less change in force over the travel range. I set mine with about 1 inch takeup from "dead loose". It works for me except when I forget to set the damn thing before a race.

I tie a small hook on the end of the elastic and hook it to the deck support post (the aft end of the radio board is another option). To make sure that I do not forget to hook it up (read that as avoid a big mess)is to ite a bright color string between the hook eye and the place it will attach to. This also reduces the changes that the sheets will get crossed by a lose end flopping about.
[}:)]
Pete

[Rick West]

Doug,
A review of the building site left me with the understanding that I have not shown the bungee system as well as I could. I have that on pending now and will update it the next building season. Sorry.

What Pete has mentioned is along the same thought process I have had. The longer the bungee line is the less loss of elasticity you will have. The thinking is that the sheets will be at close haul most of the time in a regatta. A super tight bungee then will soon lose its function.

During the refit of 94 last winter 2003, I placed an eye bolt on a piece of basswood glued vertical near the center of the station 45 rib. I put another at the port side of station 27.5 rib. From the collector loop I ran a bungee through a Pekebe block with a hook on it attached at station 45 and hooked the end to station 27.5.

Before I clamped the sleeve on the bungee for the hook at station 27.5, I ran the winch to full sheet out. Then the bungee length was adjusted at the sleeve till there was just a slight droop in the bungee line and clamped it. Now when you close haul the winch you will see that the bungee is not very tight. You will also find that you can easily hook and unhook at both stations in the blind when you need to.

During the season I tied two overhand knots in the bungee line to take up slack. The slack will come early while it is new. I have just finished my winter 2004 maintenance on her and found the bungee in good condition with no need for change as I head east.

If you go to the building site, Building the EC12/Maintenance/Spring Thaw you will see a link to the refit. I have just added a photo (008) that will show those attach points to give an idea where they are. I do not have photos of all of it. You will be able to see that photo Saturday morning as I will upload tonight.

Hope this helps, there is no set length. It is whatever floats your boat...