by s vernon » Tue Apr 12, 2011 6:52 pm
Since we are talking about the subject, I am no longer a fan of using a 2-56 threaded rod on a push/pull setup for rudder control. I use 4-40 which is quite a bit stronger. I had a bend in my 2-56 rod and it might have been in the threaded part of the rod. At any rate the rod snapped in heavy air while trying to push the rudder over. I always have used push/pull and it works fine as long as I use 4-40 threaded metal rod. I prefer a long (ending above the waterline) rudder post which sometimes requires a couple of bends in the long tiller arm as the rudder servo can be mounted well below the tiller on the rudder shaft.
Another thing that you mentioned - the geometry. You might find that now the rudder will turn further one way than the other. If it is just a small difference, especially if it steers better to port, you might not worry about it. If you do decide to worry about it, you might be able to play with the length of the fore/aft tiller arm - spin the clevises to shorten or lengthen - and maybe remove, relocate slightly and reinstall the servo arm on the servo to correct the action of the rudder.
Scott