Rudder control

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Rudder control

Postby starboard48 » Mon Apr 11, 2011 7:09 pm

I had my first sail last week. I have an older JR FX622 and a JR NES 507 rudder servo. My rudder goes about 25 degrees starboard and port and doesn't turn the boat fast enough. Can these servos be adjusted? Also I bought this Radio used and don't know how to bring up the Menu....any help will be appreciated.

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Postby s vernon » Mon Apr 11, 2011 7:39 pm

Tim,

You can move the clevis/connection on the rudder servo arm further out or move the clevis on the tiller arm (back on the rudder shaft) further in. Either of these will give you increased throw for the same servo rotation. Hopefully the servo is strong enough to steer the boat.

That is one solution anyway.

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Postby Rick West » Mon Apr 11, 2011 7:55 pm

You are right Tim, you need 37-40 degrees. This is a mechanical advantage adjustment in the rudder linkage at the servo or the tiller arm. See the Rudder section on the Building site.

...94 [8D]
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Postby starboard48 » Mon Apr 11, 2011 9:13 pm

Aha, I see. I have two more holes I can go out on the servo arm but none left on the rudder arm. Somehow I got the idea that the linkage arm had to run parallel to the servo/rudder centerline which is why I set it up the way I did. Many thanks guys, this forum is a valuable resource!

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Postby s vernon » Tue Apr 12, 2011 6:52 pm

Since we are talking about the subject, I am no longer a fan of using a 2-56 threaded rod on a push/pull setup for rudder control. I use 4-40 which is quite a bit stronger. I had a bend in my 2-56 rod and it might have been in the threaded part of the rod. At any rate the rod snapped in heavy air while trying to push the rudder over. I always have used push/pull and it works fine as long as I use 4-40 threaded metal rod. I prefer a long (ending above the waterline) rudder post which sometimes requires a couple of bends in the long tiller arm as the rudder servo can be mounted well below the tiller on the rudder shaft.

Another thing that you mentioned - the geometry. You might find that now the rudder will turn further one way than the other. If it is just a small difference, especially if it steers better to port, you might not worry about it. If you do decide to worry about it, you might be able to play with the length of the fore/aft tiller arm - spin the clevises to shorten or lengthen - and maybe remove, relocate slightly and reinstall the servo arm on the servo to correct the action of the rudder.

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Postby greerdr » Tue Apr 12, 2011 7:59 pm

I put a carbon rod over my 2-56 rod connecting servo to tiller arm leaving a bit (1/4 inch) at each end for adjustment.
I too like a straight line from servo to tiller link.


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Postby Albert Stall » Sat Apr 16, 2011 10:40 am

I too had the same problem as Scott. So I used a K&S aluminum tube 3/16D X .049 wall with a .089 ID. This is not the thin wall tubing. Drilled it out for a 4-40 tap on each side about 1/2" deep. Used 4-40 rod about 3/4" long each side. Attached a 4-40 jam nut and clevis on servo end, and a 4-40 ball link screwed in tight on the rudder end.

The whole assembly is inexpensive and very stiff.

The only pictures I have of this assembly is in my Soling pix at this link;

https://picasaweb.google.com/Mywebpictu ... eCZvujRfg#



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