<font size="4">Skippers,
I'm wiring up my systems board, and am using a deck switch, (hoping that our esteemed Secretary doesn't ride up on me and turn the boat off)[:D]. The hatch will be covered with a sheet of clear Plexiglas, and I've Velcro'd an RMG single digit VM on my jib trim servo, so that I can read it through the hatch cover.

I can't decide if I should connect the VM leads upstream or downstream of the power switch. If I mount it downstream, I'll save energy (35mW), when the boat's turned off, but will only be reading the voltage with the RX and RMG winch activated. Wiring it upstream, will cost me 35mW x how many hrs the the battery is plugged in, but will read the voltage with and without load.
Obviously, I don't want to have to remove the taped hatch cover between heats, or I'd mount the switch on the systems board.

Any advice as to how important the power loss will be? I'm using 2600mA 5AA cell NiMH battery packs from ONLYBATTERYPACKS.COM
Thanks,

Paul</font id="size4">

There is a radio plug on the flasher. Plug it into an unused channel on the RX. This will only power the flasher when the switch is on.

...94

Thanks Rick, Rob included a socket with leads, so that I can wire it into the system without having to remove the plug. I thought it might be usefull to be able to read the unloaded battery voltage, but am not sure I's worth wasting 250mA or so.

Paul

i wired mine on the RMG circut to see the battery volts when loaded.I think this is the most useful value.

R.C.Greer

And I am so ANTI to deck mounted switches!

R.C.Greer

RC, Other than someone riding up the side of your boat and shutting the power off(Easily prevented with side guards on the switch), what's the down side to a properly installed, well made waterproof switch? My hatch cover is going to be a sheet of Plexi., taped down, and I'd like to turn off the system between heats.

I wired in the socket Rob provided, upstream of the switch, so I have a choice between using it, and plugging the flasher into a spare terminal in the RX. If leaving the flasher on all day draws the battery down excessively, I'll use the RX connection

Paul

The trend over the last two years is to prepare a radio board that can be removed quickly and repaired or replaced in mere minutes. External switches and antennas hamper this.

The next innovation will be a sheetline quick disconnect....[:)]

...94

Rick, While I've just finished the wiring, and haven't gotten to the sheetlines, my board comes out, along with the turning block strut, with just the removal of two Allen screws, and the compression strut. The switch removes easily, by removing the rubber cap and nut, and pushing it down through the deck. The antenna's are mounted on a "Y" shaped piece of plastic binder cover, as per web site directions (Couldn't cement the stirrer straws to it, (these covers are all polyethylene), and had to tape them on. I'll be using a #2 Sampo swivel with a ring and snap, between the end of the winch line and bungee, and am going to attach the sheets, with rings, to the snap end(aft). I believe(or hope), if I let out the sheets, I should be able to detach them from the swivel, without removing them from the booms, and take the board right out.
Paul

Thinking and seeing the result. That is good. Event experience that may unfortunately bring problems will illuminate the wisdom toward the future.

Welcome to the Class and the world of competitive racing. It will produce a glorious weekend regardless to the result in the thinking on the way home.

See you guys in Atlanta.

...94