EC12 control devices

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EC12 control devices

Postby Rob Guyatt » Sat Nov 07, 2009 8:29 pm

Hi Blokes,
I'd like to get some feedback regarding what you people use for rudder and other servos. I want to look at current requirements for the boat other than winch current. It's part of my review of the alternate wiring method that most of you use.

Cheers
Rob


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Postby jack wubbe » Sat Nov 07, 2009 9:23 pm

Rob;

The rudder and jib trim servo's that I use are Hi Tech HS-5945-MG along with your 280 E model sail winch.

I have had no problems and every thing works as advertised.


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Postby Rick West » Sat Nov 07, 2009 10:33 pm

Rob,
I am using Futaba 9350 digital for both with the 280DL on three boats. I use 6v batteries and change them at 6.4v with alternative wiring. If breeze reguires a B Rig I will change at 6.6v. Lesson learned at Nelson.

A dual battery wiring is used with the J Class Shamrock and a 10 year old 380. This board has 1/4 scale servos.

You will have visitors in 2012. Shut down for a couple of days...you head will hurt.

...94 [8D]
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Postby Albert Stall » Sun Nov 08, 2009 10:02 am

Rob,

I use a RMG 250DL, Hitec HS645MG for rudder and a Futaba 3010 for jib trim with alternate wiring.

Al Stall

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Postby Albert Stall » Sun Nov 08, 2009 10:04 am

Rob,

Sorry, battery supply is 2700MA 5 cell, 6 volt nominal.

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Postby Capt. Flak » Sun Nov 08, 2009 10:19 am

Rob, I use a Futaba S3802 for both rudder and jib trim. I like the slow rudder. I use a 28DL with the alternate wiring. Futaba 2.4 6XE radio. 6v batteries. Never had one problem. Knock wood![8D]

Joe Walter #24
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Postby Tim » Sun Nov 08, 2009 10:22 am

Rob,

I am using a RMG 280DL, Hitec HS645MG for both rudder and jib trim with your alternate wiring set up. I also use 5 cell, 2600ma battery pack with no voltage regulator.

Tim
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Postby tag1945 » Sun Nov 08, 2009 10:58 am

Rob

I have 3 Futaba 6EX TXs and I use RMG 280DL winch, Hitec HS645MG servos for both the jib and rudder. One of my TXs had the zeroed out ID and Futaba reprogramed it about a year ago. Other than that, I have had no problems with the radio. As Dave talked about in his paper, I have had the slipping pot gear on 2 winches, which were fixed by cleaning the pot shaft and using a drop of CA to hold it fast. I also have 2 China made 2.4 Ghz, 6 channel TXs that I have used with my boats and have not had any problems with any of them.

Tom
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Postby deafsail » Sun Nov 08, 2009 11:38 am

Rob
I use a futaba t4exa w/81 channel tx ,rwg 280DL and rudder servo s 9350 .not use jibtrim.And spare for rwg280DL,rudder servo s9350andrx r168df fm . From batteryspace.com : 2200ma 9.6v and 2200 6v

ec12-81
ec12-2013
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Postby greerdr » Sun Nov 08, 2009 7:53 pm

Bob,You are making a super product.
don't know what you could do to make it better.
I sail with:Futaba 6EX Tx,DL280,Rudder:futaba 23121;jib:cirrus PC2740mc.
Dump the power fail-safe. Make the skipper know the power and Devil take the hindmost.

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Postby Albert Stall » Sun Nov 08, 2009 10:58 pm

Rob,

I'm using a 280DL not a 250. I must have had a brain fart.....

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Postby Rob Guyatt » Wed Nov 11, 2009 5:00 am

Thanks for the feedback. Will chase up the specs and look at currents. Ideally I would like to beef up the on board regulator to accommodate a few more amps and maybe simplify the wiring for you guys. It's on the to-do list. Anyone found any roundtoits[?]



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Postby pgfaini » Fri Nov 20, 2009 3:38 am

Rob, Was your FLASH digital voltage display designed to be wired to display full time, or connected to a momentary switch? 35mW seems to be a small enough drain to be lived with the few hrs. the system is actually on during a race, But reading about how much concern about battery weight there is on this site, makes me wonder. I was thinking about designing a magnetic reed switch/relay setup, so that I could switch the system on&off by passing a magnet over the switch without opening the hatch cover. The voltage display would do double duty as a pilot lamp.

Paul
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Postby Rob Guyatt » Fri Nov 20, 2009 4:32 am

Hi Paul,
The intention is to just leave it on whenever the boat is turned on. You can put a switch in if you like but it's not really worth it. Very crude numbers suggests that average boat consumption is say 200 mA. That comes from a crude assumption that a 2000 mAh pack would last 10 hours. Add the 10 mA of the Flash and this takes boat consumption to 210 mA. It's a small percentage increase (5%) Not worth putting in a switch for.


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Postby pgfaini » Fri Nov 20, 2009 10:47 am

Thanks Rob. The magnetic reed switch I was thinking about installing, would be the one to turn the electrics in the boat on and off. Don't want to put a switch above deck, and this would save me the bother of removing and re-taping the hatch cover between heats. Is anyone making these?
Paul
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