Hi Blokes,
I'd like to get some feedback regarding what you people use for rudder and other servos. I want to look at current requirements for the boat other than winch current. It's part of my review of the alternate wiring method that most of you use.

Cheers
Rob


Rob

Rob;

The rudder and jib trim servo's that I use are Hi Tech HS-5945-MG along with your 280 E model sail winch.

I have had no problems and every thing works as advertised.


Jack Wubbe
EC-12 #2123, #1963 and #?

Rob,
I am using Futaba 9350 digital for both with the 280DL on three boats. I use 6v batteries and change them at 6.4v with alternative wiring. If breeze reguires a B Rig I will change at 6.6v. Lesson learned at Nelson.

A dual battery wiring is used with the J Class Shamrock and a 10 year old 380. This board has 1/4 scale servos.

You will have visitors in 2012. Shut down for a couple of days...you head will hurt.

...94

Rob,

I use a RMG 250DL, Hitec HS645MG for rudder and a Futaba 3010 for jib trim with alternate wiring.

Al Stall

Al Stall

Rob,

Sorry, battery supply is 2700MA 5 cell, 6 volt nominal.

Al Stall

Rob, I use a Futaba S3802 for both rudder and jib trim. I like the slow rudder. I use a 28DL with the alternate wiring. Futaba 2.4 6XE radio. 6v batteries. Never had one problem. Knock wood![8D]

Joe Walter #24

Rob,

I am using a RMG 280DL, Hitec HS645MG for both rudder and jib trim with your alternate wiring set up. I also use 5 cell, 2600ma battery pack with no voltage regulator.

Tim
Vermont

Rob

I have 3 Futaba 6EX TXs and I use RMG 280DL winch, Hitec HS645MG servos for both the jib and rudder. One of my TXs had the zeroed out ID and Futaba reprogramed it about a year ago. Other than that, I have had no problems with the radio. As Dave talked about in his paper, I have had the slipping pot gear on 2 winches, which were fixed by cleaning the pot shaft and using a drop of CA to hold it fast. I also have 2 China made 2.4 Ghz, 6 channel TXs that I have used with my boats and have not had any problems with any of them.

Tom

Rob
I use a futaba t4exa w/81 channel tx ,rwg 280DL and rudder servo s 9350 .not use jibtrim.And spare for rwg280DL,rudder servo s9350andrx r168df fm . From batteryspace.com : 2200ma 9.6v and 2200 6v

ec12-81
ec12-2013
Baron Bremer [:)]

Bob,You are making a super product.
don't know what you could do to make it better.
I sail with:Futaba 6EX Tx,DL280,Rudder:futaba 23121;jib:cirrus PC2740mc.
Dump the power fail-safe. Make the skipper know the power and Devil take the hindmost.

R.C.Greer

Rob,

I'm using a 280DL not a 250. I must have had a brain fart.....

Al Stall

Thanks for the feedback. Will chase up the specs and look at currents. Ideally I would like to beef up the on board regulator to accommodate a few more amps and maybe simplify the wiring for you guys. It's on the to-do list. Anyone found any roundtoits[?]



Rob

Rob, Was your FLASH digital voltage display designed to be wired to display full time, or connected to a momentary switch? 35mW seems to be a small enough drain to be lived with the few hrs. the system is actually on during a race, But reading about how much concern about battery weight there is on this site, makes me wonder. I was thinking about designing a magnetic reed switch/relay setup, so that I could switch the system on&off by passing a magnet over the switch without opening the hatch cover. The voltage display would do double duty as a pilot lamp.

Paul

Hi Paul,
The intention is to just leave it on whenever the boat is turned on. You can put a switch in if you like but it's not really worth it. Very crude numbers suggests that average boat consumption is say 200 mA. That comes from a crude assumption that a 2000 mAh pack would last 10 hours. Add the 10 mA of the Flash and this takes boat consumption to 210 mA. It's a small percentage increase (5%) Not worth putting in a switch for.


Rob

Thanks Rob. The magnetic reed switch I was thinking about installing, would be the one to turn the electrics in the boat on and off. Don't want to put a switch above deck, and this would save me the bother of removing and re-taping the hatch cover between heats. Is anyone making these?
Paul