Is there a preferred setting for shroud tension? Maybe a rule of thumb as to how tight they should be?

I have set them all equal, using my backstay (loos) gauge but am having problems with broken shrouds. Not sure if it is due to being too tight or too loose.

Any input would be appreciated

Paul P

I prefer to keep my shrouds as loose as possible to still keep the mast shape I want for given conditions. I don't have a tensionometer so I can't quantify it.

MH

Paul,

What kind of wire are you using and where are they breaking?

As Matt said, it's impossible to measure without a tensionometer but I set mine up to the tune of twing not twang. That is tight enough so that there is no sagging on the leeward side when the rig is under pressure.

RK

Reichard,
I am using .016 Stainless wire, solid. It seems to be breaking at the eye to the shroud adjuster. I've checked the eyes and that is not it. It is where the wire begins its wrap around the wire to form the loop.

That is the weakest spot so that is where I would anticipate a break due to either too much tension or the stress caused by "impact" when the rig gets slammed in a gust. (Some day I'll learn how to avoid a broach).

I am making the eye by using a Dubro end tool. It wraps the wire around itself to form a round eye with securing wraps around the line. Kind of hard to describe but it is the accepted way to terminate solid line.

If I were using stranded wire, I would anticipate more breaks since the solid is stronger.

Still looking for that magic formula. One guy suggested just tight enough that when you push on the spreader on one side, the opposite side doesn't go slack. Does that sound valid? I don't like the idea of loose shrouds, it defeats the purpose.

Could you strum your's one more time, I didn't quite get the note was it Twing, Twang or Twung? Twing sounds tight to me.

Paul P

Paul
I am a proffessional captain and use solid wire on all my bait rigs, and we found that if you make the loop with finger preasure and make one loose twist, we use three, and then start the tight twist( 3-4 turns )and then bend the tail 90 deg to the shroud and then make a 90 deg bend. You then can hold the 3-4 wraps with a set plyers and use the crank to twist off the tail, comes up real clean.

In your tackle shop they have a tool that makes perfect twists. I think the problem is, since the wire is 17-4 semi heat treated s/s wire and with out the loose twist first the first hard turn fractures the wire to the point that half the tencil strengh has been lost. When I make bait rigs I use three soft or loose twist before the tight finish turns. I got a 435 lb blue marlin on .020 wire. Just found my tool it is a " DUO-BRO E/Z TWIST ". You can't come out of the rigging coupler and make a tight twist, will break at the first wrap every time. You might go thru the coupler twice and then into the barrel wraps, to take some of the load off of the primary turn. I use " MALIN HARD-WIRE ", directions on the back.

I now use " sig " u-control wire.



Bob Dudinsky

Bob,
You've shed light on the problem. I am using the Dubro tool, but I am immediately going to the tight twists, which creates a stress riser on the wire. Now I understand why it is breaking where it does.

Using your fishing commments, I did some research. The end you are refering to is called a haywire twist. This link: http://www.sefly.com/haywire_twist.htm gives instructions on how to make it.

Can you confirm this is what you use.

Think I've got the broken ends figured out, now to work on the proper tension.

Paul P

Paul

Yes it is the haywire twist, I wouldn't use the 2 or 3 loose twists. maybe one close loose twist, maybe 1/8 above the coupler and then into the barrel turns. We use the 2-4 lose twist for a shock absorber on a large fish. Might try looping thru the coupler twice then into a small loose twist and the into the barrel turns.
ps. e-mail me or call, different subject.


Bob Dudinsky

I've been using a fishing crimp sleeve with solid S/S wire. It's easier to do than describe but I'll give it a try.

I start with the stay attached to the mast with the sleeve and a piece of heat shrink tube taped up high out of the way. Remember, you need to cut a longer piece of wireto do this. With pliers, I take the loose end and feed it through the fitting and pull up creating a loop. Then temporarily tape the assembly together and take about .75 inch of the loose end and fold it over tight. It should be something like a "Z" bend. Slide the sleeve down over the folded end and center on the fold. Crimp the sleeve then take the top of the tightly folded exposed portion of the wire and bend it over the sleeve with pliers. Take the single loose end at the bottom of the crimp, fold it up over the sleeve, squeeze with pliers and trim the excess. Then cover the completed crimp with the heat shrink you left at the top of the stay. I haven't broken one yet.

For what it's worth, plain music wire is several times stronger than stainless, for the same diameter. I've switched over from stainless to music.

I have tried stainless wire myself in the past, experiencing breakages as well. I had also observed that the stainless single strand wire seemed to be growing. Tests between two points on the wire showed that the wire indeed requires very little tension to begin streaching.

I have for this reason moved to using 15 pound multi strand fishing trace wire that is plastic coated.

Regards Phil