I'm leaning towards using .021" stranded SS wire instead of .018", for the extra strength (80lb. vs. 55lb.), and reduced stretching, on my B & C rigs, and maybe my A rig also. It fits well into the #75 holes I've drilled in the masts for the blind tangs, and the holes in the shroud rack turnbucle screws. Stiffness shouldn't be an issue, since some are using solid wire. Any down side other than slightly increased wind resistance?

Paul #614

Wow, 72 hits, as of today, and not one reply either pro or con. Pretty disappointing, I guess I'll just go along with the crowd and use .018" wire.

Paul #614

Paul,

Here is a link to some 80# stainless steel wire, .18" dia.

http://www.shootnhunt.com/fishing_line_ ... -0041.html

I have used this on 2 rigs.

Good luck.

Tim [:)]

mcmaster-carr plenty .018 ss wire
small parts plenty .018 ss wire

Baron [:)]

Not that my opinion is from vast amounts of experience or anything, but I would MUCH rather the shroud wire snap in a collision than it hold tight and rip the chain plate through the deck, or the deck clean off (or pick your other catastrophic event here). 55lb is WAY more than you would ever need for actual working strength. I personally am going the other direction. my heaviest wire is now only .16 on the lower-lowers. Rest is .14 all around. On my new 505 "light rig" I'm using 30lb 7-strand. Everything is pre-stretched at 10lb for 3-4 days.

I also carry pre-stretched shrouds ready to go to a regatta that I can throw on in less than a 5 minute hold in-case of a collision/demasting.

Just my 2 cents.

Eric Olson
Atlanta Model Yacht Club
AtlMYC.org

I'm restoring a 30 year old boat, and found standing and running rigging at BASS PRO. Major improvements in running rigging, Couldn't find 50 lb dacron line, lucky ran into sales man who deep sea fished and set me straight.

Paul,

I use .018 on my uppers on an A rig and .021 on the lowers since the lowers have more load on them. Hard to measure wind resistance difference for .004 so I can't say it would make a difference.

Hope this helps,


Chuck
#84

Thanks to all for the responses. I'll probably go with Chuck's method for my A rig, and all .021 for the B & C rigs. My boat's an old Dumas, and the hull and deck are pretty heavy, unlike the newer "built as light as possible" boats. It would take quite a hit to take out the chain plates or tear the deck off (I think). I'm new at this, and will have to learn the hard way, I guess[B)]

Paul #614

.018 ss stranded, .015 ss solid has served me well. I have never had a rig come down without contact.

Having never seen a wire break, I have felt that those rigs that come down under wind pressure alone are due to connection issues at the mast or the chainplate connector by wear or a minor flaw in construction, usually crimping.

...94

Thanks Rick, Those photos of #1405 in the Liberty Bell Regatta, got me thinking about using a bit heavier wire. Never did find out what actually failed. I'll go with the .018 all around, and on the hidden tangs, use figure eight knots above the sleeves, bringing the tag back into the sleeve. I've got both crimper's and vise grips, and in tests, they both worked as well. Nylon coated wire is a very weak point, don't know if anyone is using it, but it will strip right off with the sleeve under pressure.

Paul #614

Most of us avoid coated wire;you haved mentioned one problem:slippage.
Another is corrosion.I spray my connections with white lithium after racing to <b></b>SLOW<b></b> the process.
Always look carefully at your standing rigging before any regatta as it tends to get weak during down time,and it always manages to blow hard enough at some time to bring down a rig.

R.C.Greer