Ozmun info...

[W Wagner]

O.K. quick question. Can anyone out there with an Ozmun tell me what the all up weight (A rig and ready to sail) their boat is at whatever WL length. For instance, 23lbs at 42 ½. Also any Ozmun specific trim or is it also the +1 deg? Seems to me that might be different due to the wide flat run aft as compared to the 95. I am trying to get in the ballpark before I get it in a tank. I haven’t weighed my boat but I am told it feels light when you pick it up which may just be the difference between the new 95 standard. I did a search and came up with a lot of great info but nothing as specific as I am looking for.

Thanks in advance.

Will


EC12 fixer-upper OZM0110 sail number 826

[Chuck Luscomb]

Hi Will,

As you know, weight will not be the determining factor. Waterline is it. If your boat was built with a fuller beam, the weight might be higher than one with a narrower beam to get the same waterline.

At the Nationals in 05, the orgainzers recorded boat weights when boats were measured in. This was the only time I have seen this done. I have a copy of this spread sheet if you want to have a look.

As far as trim. Current thinking suggest that near zero degees seems to work best favoring bow slightly down. We have taken older boats(one is an Ozmun) in our fleet that did not sail as well, re-balasted them and re-trimed them and they are moving with the new boats.

Hope this helps,

Chuck
#84

[W Wagner]

Chuck,

Thanks for the info. I will send you an email about the spreadsheet, which sounds like it has what I am looking for. I am just looking for a starting point so I can throw the thing on a scale and know how much or how little work I have to do before it goes in the tank / tub.

From what I can gather it takes around 2lbs to go from max Wl to min. What is the weight difference between a full verses narrow beam? Seems like it can’t be much. Any info on what WL seems to work best with the Ozmun hull? I was just going to shoot for the middle. Also where is the 0deg referenced, the deck or the bottom of the keel?

Thanks for the help..

Regards, Will


EC12 fixer-upper OZM0110 sail number 826

[Chuck Luscomb]

Hi Will,

What is the keel width at the widest point?

I have seen two schools of thought regarding ballast. One suggests that you ballast up or down to achieve min (42") or max (43") waterline to suite the prevailing wind conditions. The other is to shoot for the middle (42.5") and leave it at that.

On my older Hickman boat, I am not doing either of these. I am actually sailing the boat at very near max waterline in all wind conditions. Funny as it sounds, the boat sails better in light air with this set up than it did at min waterline.

Like I said, every boat is little bit different.

As far as how much lead is required to make the jump from min to max waterline, my experience has been 1.0-1.25lbs will take you there. Others may have different results with some of these older hulls. With the new hulls that are currently available, how much ballast and were to place it has become more predictable

The degree reference of 0 is taken from the deck level while floating in the tank at the desired waterline.

How close are you to putting in the ballast?

Chuck
#84

[Pink66]

Hi Will,

I can offer you some specifics on an Ozmun hull. My original Ozmun #1260 Deglo was set-up as follows: 42 1/2" waterline using the average beam dimensions with at least +1 deg bow up. Might have been closer to +1.5. It weighs 23.5 lbs fully rigged. The ballast was about 17.8 lbs. You can mark the waterline by hooking a tape on the bow and pulling down the centerline of the hull towards the stern to 8 3/8" and then do the same on the stern pulling towards the bow 9 1/2". Balance to those marks in your tank and you will have my exact trim. I didn't bother with multiple ballasting and she was a pretty fast boat in all wind speeds.

Hope that helps. Great to see an old Ozmun still on the water!

Even in my new boats, I don't like the zero bow trim.

Mark

[kahle67]

Yes, Will. What Pinky said is the same advice and measurements that he gave to me years back and what I have used as a target for over 20 boats built.

I sailed an Ozmun (The Lordship)for a season and won a few regattas with it.Definately a fast boat when trimed out properly and probably the best hull to have prior to the '95 standard. It could even be faster because Danny Thomas still kicks our buts with his when he shows up at regattas.

Reichard Kahle
Charleston, SC

[MichaelJ2K]

Will Mark and Reichard,
My Ozmun has the long keel weight that Ray poured. Is/was yours the same? I also noticed that the boat like the rig a little farther forward than the current models.

Mike Denest
EC12 #899

[Rick West]

I have an unbuilt Ozmun #326 YRN1457 hull, deck and rudder.

...94

[W Wagner]

Thanks so much for all of the info. The ballast it already in and the boat is an existing registered boat that I bought cheep. It was beat down and poorly constructed to say the least and I am trying to rehab / save it. The keel width is 2.13. I faired in the rudder and redid the bottom. To fix and fair the keel I actually had to put a layer of 2oz glass over the bottom of the keel to fix where the hull had been sanded through. Looks great now except where the poorly fitting stand ruined my work, gerrrrrr. I weighed the boat and rig and I got .57lb and 21.4lb for a total of 21.97lbs. with what looks like a long lead. I found the spreadsheet form the 05 nationals on the building site along with the weight section, great info. The two Ozmun’s that sailed were 22.86 and 22.92lbs. With that info and Mark’s info (thanks!) at 23.5lbs, and bow up, it looks like I am potentially a pound to a pound and a half light. I will mark the 8 3/8â€