I've been asked a question that I can't answer, so I turn to your experience. Assume that you have a Dumas hull with the deck installed. The ballast was lead shot, which you have removed. The pre-manufactured ballasts available are too wide to fit into the keel. Have you ever poured new ballast with a deck installed? If you could provide a step-by-step method it would be GREATLY appreciated.
Thanks,
Frank Angel
[8)]

we were just discussing this this past Sunday. You woould need to find a conduit of some sort to allow the led to funnel down into the appropriate spot. perhaps some iron pipe or iron angle of large enough size

I am no expert on the subject by a long shot, but I would think that you would need to heat the pipe or angle iron to make sure the lead does not harden to it as it flows. You might be in for a big mess otherwise.

Joe

Joe Walter #24

Not such a simple task, but here is what needs to be done.

1) Determine how much lead needs to be poured to reach the desired waterline length.

2) Choose the length and positioning of the pour. There are lots of different oppinions about short vs. long ballast pours. Mine is about 14.5" long so all measurements following are based on that. Along a line that runs at deck level from bow to stern, the front of the ballst is 21.5" aft and the back is at 36".

3) Make dams out of plywood to fit in the locations above.The front should be about 2" high and the back should come up to the top of the keel. Once you get them to fit as snug as you can with very few holidays, set them in place and seal them by brushing some pour rock on the outside edges.

4) Go to Walmart and buy a $10.00 baby pool.

5) Set the boat in the water with the bow down approx. seven degrees (you will need and angle meter). Two five gallon buckets and a board with weights works fine to hold the bow down. A lawn chair works well to lift the stern.

6) Melt and pour the lead. I usually do it in 3-4 pours, letting the lead cool between. Since the deck is on in this case, pouring the lead is more difficult than usual but not impossible. Depending on the positioning of your hatch, you need to choose what to pour the lead with. I have a stainlees coffee perculator with a handle, lid and spout. If your aft dam is well behind the front of your hatch opening, somthing like this will work. If your dam is too hard to get to, you will need a long handled Ladle.

7) Remove dams and clean out cement. You may have to remove the lead to sucessfully do this.

8) KIDS, DONT TRY THIS AT HOME. Always find a club member who has done this before to assist. Take a pot full of molten lead and add a pool of water and what do you get? I don't know but I never want to find out.

One last thing. It is better to go slightly light and add trim weights than to go too heavy and be forced to remove lead.


Reichard Kahle

Reichard, What is the "pour rock" you mention in your last post. I plan on taking this boat (#170) to the pour party on the 24th.

Scott

Pour Rock is a concrete mix. It fills the gaps and holds the dams in place and is not bothered by the heat (any brand will do). If you are going to the pour party, no need to worry about a thing. Brawner, Kjellberg and posse will hook you up.

RK

Reichard, Thanks for the info. I'm adding WEST system to the hull seam and checking for leaks. I've talked about this boat here before. She's 26 years old but the rig and sails are new.

Scott

Reichard

>is th pour party Jan 24?
>if so i would like to attend
>would be willing to donate some lead bars for any help
>bars weay betwine 50# and 100# each
>have menney
>have Doumas with deck on
>plan on removing deck on next rebuild, would like to sail boat this year.



Richard W Marsh JR

Rich,

Go back to the front page and click on the 2004 calendar. On the top of the list is the Pour Party with Dave Brawner as the contact.

RK

More on a pre cast ballast for Dumas Hulls.

I received this information from John Hickman.

John wrote:

I still have the capabilities to build a single pour ballast the would fit in the Dumas hull. I put as many as 10-12 in these hulls. The secret is to make sure that the hull inside does not have any unsmooth areas that will interfere
I will offer either the old or the new ballast for $75.00 each. That way old boats can be revived if wanted. The old (narrow) ballast weigh 16-17 pounds. The new pour weigh 18-19 pounds. I like to make them on the light side to allow for trimming and balance by the builder(installer).

John "Skip" Hickman.

You can reach John at [url]EC12YACHTS@AOL.COM[/url]
Posted with permission by Frank Angel [:)]