by kahle67 » Mon Jan 12, 2004 12:47 pm
Not such a simple task, but here is what needs to be done.
1) Determine how much lead needs to be poured to reach the desired waterline length.
2) Choose the length and positioning of the pour. There are lots of different oppinions about short vs. long ballast pours. Mine is about 14.5" long so all measurements following are based on that. Along a line that runs at deck level from bow to stern, the front of the ballst is 21.5" aft and the back is at 36".
3) Make dams out of plywood to fit in the locations above.The front should be about 2" high and the back should come up to the top of the keel. Once you get them to fit as snug as you can with very few holidays, set them in place and seal them by brushing some pour rock on the outside edges.
4) Go to Walmart and buy a $10.00 baby pool.
5) Set the boat in the water with the bow down approx. seven degrees (you will need and angle meter). Two five gallon buckets and a board with weights works fine to hold the bow down. A lawn chair works well to lift the stern.
6) Melt and pour the lead. I usually do it in 3-4 pours, letting the lead cool between. Since the deck is on in this case, pouring the lead is more difficult than usual but not impossible. Depending on the positioning of your hatch, you need to choose what to pour the lead with. I have a stainlees coffee perculator with a handle, lid and spout. If your aft dam is well behind the front of your hatch opening, somthing like this will work. If your dam is too hard to get to, you will need a long handled Ladle.
7) Remove dams and clean out cement. You may have to remove the lead to sucessfully do this.
8) KIDS, DONT TRY THIS AT HOME. Always find a club member who has done this before to assist. Take a pot full of molten lead and add a pool of water and what do you get? I don't know but I never want to find out.
One last thing. It is better to go slightly light and add trim weights than to go too heavy and be forced to remove lead.
Reichard Kahle