veneer vs balsa

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Postby Ken S » Sun Jan 29, 2006 11:32 am

Earl,

The sandwich goes like this....bottom layer tissue cloth
middle layer plywood
top layer 0.75 oz cloth

We use the West System epoxy to wet out the cloth.

when vacuum bagging it we put that sandwich between mylar sheets, ring that whole assembly with paper towels for breathing cloth and then close the bag and apply vacuum.

The vacuum compresses the mylar against the deck and squeezes out the extra epoxy and also gives the deck a smooth surface, as long as you haven't trapped any air bubbles between the mylar and the deck. Its important to get out any air pockets.

Ken S
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Postby yachtie » Sun Jan 29, 2006 3:41 pm

Ken - how long do you apply the vacuum for???

Chris
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Postby Ken S » Mon Jan 30, 2006 12:08 pm

Hi Chris,

The setup time for the epoxy is around 12 hours. We usually leave the deck in the bag for at least that long. Most times I leave it for a day, its not necessary but why rush, this is fun right?[:)]

Paul and I have used a brake vacuum pump we got from a local Auto parts store. Its not the best but it works. The toughest part of this whole process is making sure you've got good vacuum. When we haven't had a good seal, checking the vacuum pressure and repumping keeps the process going....its all about squeezing off the excess epoxy and letting the paper towels wick that off. Once thats done its just epoxy setting up under pressure.

Pressure anywhere from 14-18 inches works fine.

This process is better when two people are doing it, its messy but doable with one though.

Heres a decent link for theory.
http://www.info-central.org/constructio ... ging.shtml

Ken
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Postby John Egizi » Wed Oct 25, 2006 12:23 am

Can anyone tell me what the total weight is for a 1/16" balsa wood deck with all the necessary frames, fiberglass and adhesives? Thanks John
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Postby Rick West » Wed Oct 25, 2006 12:49 pm

It is very hard to measure with just the parts. On Jamaica (the multicolored hull)I weighed the boat before the decking and then after the curing of the resin. I came up with 12 ounces.

I have heard statements that this type of deck is 7 ounces. I found that not to be so.

The molded decks made by George Ribeiro in the late 90's were around 16 ounces and were not a stand alone unit and was not fabricated as a structural unit. So, they needed support and hence far heavier than the balsa/resin process of the time.

The fabricated decks today are stand alone (with a mast compression strut) and the weights are about the same as the balsa system. They take about an hour to prep for the hardware, 15 minutes to install, overnight to cure and about 20-25 minutes to trim and finish. They are stronger, less intensive and messy to install, provide options in color and easy to maintain. I love em!

...94 [8D]
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Postby Doug Wotring » Wed Oct 25, 2006 7:34 pm

one thing I don't like about the new Molded decks is the design off the hatch holw which is concave.

seems alot like a funnel. Perhaps not an issue in calm waters, but in the NE, we regulaarly sail in winds that will heal the boat over and have a ood chance for water intrusion...at least in my minds eye.

In two and a half years with my current hatch slide in variety, have yet to have any water inside
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Postby Mike Zellanack » Mon Oct 30, 2006 10:16 am

Doug:

Just out of curiosity, what molded deck are you referring to? I assume you're not talking about the RMD molded deck. The deck Bob Dudinsky manufactures doesn't have any concave area at all. It has a uniform crown from bow to stern. I've installed about 15 of the RMD decks using a rear sliding polycarbonate hatch and found them to be extremely dry. This combination doesn't allow any water intrusion. If you're interested in a very light weight molded deck, I suggest you give one a try. The newest version of the deck weighs in at about ten ounces installed.

Mike
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Postby Capt. Flak » Mon Oct 30, 2006 11:24 am

Mike, I think Doug is referring to the 1/8 inch round around the hatch opening. This of course was done to make the deck release easily from the mold and to ensure a clean solid edge to the hatch opening. If it had a square edge it would be very difficult to work the glass into the corner, and it could be chipped easily too.

I think there is a chance for water to flow down into the boat, but only if the hatch cover was poorly made and did not overlap the hatch opening enough. AND, certainly not any more than any other hatch opening on other decks.

I agree with you that there is no reason to assume they will leak, with a well made hatch cover.

I have one fo these decks for my new boat. It is a work of art and I can't wait to get the boat finished.

Joe Walter #24
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Postby Doug Wotring » Mon Oct 30, 2006 5:30 pm

I was refering to the RMD Deck,

But I did not get a good look at it with the hatch installed just as open when sitting on shore at Nats.

Will have to take a longer look next year
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