Deck

[Jim Linville]

I intend to build my own reck and need some clarification of the class rules regarding decks.

1) Does the 60 square inch hatch (Rule 4.4) which "may" be covered with something other that the materials listed in Rule 4.2 have to maintain the sheer curve of the deck as required in Rule 4.3? Are there limitations on the materials I can use to make this hatch?

2) Rule 4.4 says that "Any other hatches shall comply with Section 4.2." I assume that this means I can have a couple of extra smallish tape-down hatches strategically placed on the deck for repair access so long as they are made from the materials listed in Rule 4.2. Is my assumption correct? If so, do they need to follow the sheer curve?

Please note that I'm not trying to push the rules. I have a beautiful piece of teak veneer and a pile of 1/8 inch end-grain balsa that I think will make a great looking deck (maybe a little heavy... but my philosophy is that if it looks good and feels good it is good).

--Jim Linville, 958

[Jim Linville]

That should be deck, nor reck... sigh [xx(]

[Rick West]

Jim,
The intention of Section 4 is to provide reasonable restrictions for esthetics of the model. To build a deck of teak and grained balsa follows that thought. To then proceed to cut holes in it for some function was not concidered a craftsman thing to do. The main hatch is a needed entry and can be of any material you like. Because of where it is conforming to Rule 4.3 is not reasonable or required. It will be flat, as seen on most boats.

However, other hatches were not in the framers minds toward esthetics and hence, have been restricted to the materials of Rule 4.2. They too can be flat. It is rare to see a hatch other than the main on a boat for design reasons.



...94

[Jim Linville]

Thanks for the quick answer, El Capitan. I'm playing with the idea of using a radial jib fitting and would like access to the chain locker. My intent would be to make the access hatch in the exact same materials as the deck (teak veneer laminated to end-grain balsa). I'm also playing with the concept of a different kind of jib twitcher mechanism and would like access to it. All in all, I'd like to have two or three access hatches that are removable, but not necessarily easily removable. If I build them they will follow the sheer curve, and most people won't know they're there. --Jim, 958

[Rick West]

I will be carrying my scout hatchet and look forward to seeing a classy Dumas. I like swift justice.

...94

[Doug Wotring]

Jim,

I used a paper backed Teak Veneer for my deck, Vacume baged glassed on one side and then glassed to the hull on the top side.

Is very sturdy. Don't think there is a need for the balsa substaight.

Doug

[Jim Linville]

Thanks, Doug. Let me see if I understand how you did it (and ask some questions).

1. I assume you vacuum bagged a layer of glass to one side only of the veneer (what weight glass?)

2. When you fastened the vacuum bagged veneer/glass sandwich to the hull, did you completely cover the other side of the veneer/glass sandwich deck with glass or use glass tape to bond the edges of the deck to the hull? My guess is that you covered the whole deck and vacuum bagged it a second time. (again, what weight glass?)

I hope this is clear.

--Jim

--Jim

[Doug Wotring]

will answer via email, if anyone is interested feel free to email me directly

[Capt. Flak]

This is a good discussion. I think it should be moved to the Building Info section and continued there. Doug, share with all on the forum. Just do it on the Building section instead of the Ask the Secretary section.

Joe Walter #24

[John Garver]

Jim I cut a small hatch in the front to get to the forward block. If you cut it at a 45 degree to the deck then it can be set back in place with a small amount of silicon caulk. Plus it is fairly easy to remove and replace

[greerdr]

To prevent my having to cut thru the deck to access the forward turning block I reeve a safety line of very slippery/thin line thru the block and secure both ends near the radio board.If I do not catch trouble in my winch line in time and failure occurs I can be sailing again fairly quickly.

R.C.Greer

[Larry Ludwig]

I secure the forward turning block to a line which then passes through an eye. This does two things. First it allows you to remove the turning block and re-thread it as needed and pull it back into place in seconds. 2nd, it allows me to set the tension on the loop that the winch operates. Just drawn the line with turning block on it's end back along side the hull out of the way and secure... then you can release or tension the loop easily.

Leave enough tail on the line so that if you pull the turning block back all the way to the hatch opening you still have enough line you don't have to go fishing for the tail up forward. (A stop knot through an eyelet near your hatch opening is a good idea to keep from losing your tail.)[8D]

visit us at www.LudwigRCYachts.com

[Jim Linville]

Larry:

If I understand what you're saying (and I think I do), you don't shackle the turning block to the screw-eye. Instead you tie a heavy line directly to the turning block and feed it through the screw-eye back to a position where it can be accessed from the hatch. Using a bowsie (or cleat) it can then be tightened to keep pressure on the drum in the continuous loop. A second (lighter) line is "sistered" with the heavy line to serve as a "messenger" line if needed. Is this correct?

--Jim Linville

[Larry Ludwig]

I wish I had a pic, I should take some when I have the deck off and it is easier, but yes it sounds that you have the idea. I use a cleat instead of a bowser since it is more rigid, then the only question mark is stretch in the line. It doesn't take a heavy line so to speak since it carries no more load than the loop driven by the winch. If you want to be more careful you can make something that turns the line easier than a screw eye and your line will last longer. How much longer I can't say because I have some dacron line from Reynolds that is 25 years old and still holding... so it's not as if it fails very often.

The nice part for me, and the reason that I went to it was because of setting the tension on the loop which for my way of thinking makes adjusting the load on the winch (prolongs the life of the winch and the loop line) manageable and precise and <i>FAST</i>

I anchor the line on the side of the radio board near the hull where it doubles as leak detector. If the line is wet, I know the boat leaked.[:D]

visit us at www.LudwigRCYachts.com

[Skip Quinn]

Hi Jim
If you look under the building site, then sheet line system, then RMG lines you might find something that might help. Good Luck. Skip[8D]