The forward turning block

by **Tom Causin** » Fri Oct 17, 2003 3:48 pm

the boat I bought had a sail control arm setup installed but I let him take that stuff out in favor of the RMG winch (which I have already) What is the best method of getting a turning block mounted in the bow. The deck is too nice to rip off.

Tom Causin
Ashburn Model Yacht Club

by **kahle67** » Sat Oct 18, 2003 1:52 am

Mount a block on an arrow shaft or carbon rod. Jam it in the bow and anchor the aft end to your lead or radio board. Make shure you shim the block properly so that you have a fair lead.

RK

by **Tom Causin** » Sun Oct 19, 2003 8:52 pm

Sounds like the Idea I had but I added a 1 inch rubber superball to the end of the carbon tube to make sure I got a good snug fit up forward. My reason for that is -- if I send the carbon shaft up-forward , how do I know that I have a fit that wont shift later? I'm glad I was thinking in the right direction

Thanks
Tom Causin

Tom Causin
Ashburn Model Yacht Club

by **yachtie** » Sun Oct 19, 2003 10:23 pm

A simple way I and others do it down under is to use aluminum curtain track with a pekabe or similar block attached to the end. The track is mounted on the same board as radio gear / winch / servo and all comes out as one piece from the boat. The sheets attach to a curtain slide in track which is lined up with the RMG winch. The block is attached with bungy to give a constant load back to winch. Sheets clip on with fishing clips.
This setup can be easily worked on out of the boat with re-install taking less than 2 minutes.
[:o)]

Chris
NZL1 Longtack

by **Rick West** » Mon Oct 20, 2003 12:29 pm

Tom,
There have been many inovations to making the conversion to the RMG on a boat that is already decked. Most have worked fine. Cameron Hunt of the Piedmont group recently built a new boat and installed an equipment board system with a boom like extension into the bow for the turning block. The system comes out as one unit.

There has been a move in the last couple of years to these systems. One or two were also built in Stowe las winter. The interest is mainly to install a bow turning block mount that is accessable and thereby head off possible failure trauma of a failed hard mount at station 4.

Whereas, you are starting anew with the sheeting system, you might contact him for further information. I am sure you know him.

Rick [8D]

by **Capt. Flak** » Mon Oct 20, 2003 6:00 pm

I did this with my old Treasure Tooling Hull. I carved a block to fit the bow out of hard wood. It fits up in the first two inches of the bow. Some trial and error was involved and the use of a bright flashlight and mirror is needed to make a good fit. Then I drilled a hole in the bottom corner of the block so that the carbon rod would lay along the bottom of the hull. It also followed the curve of the hull down to the compression post. The bend in the rod kept pressure on the block and the compression post.

The rod was epoxied into the block and end of a nail was epoxied into the other end of the rod which stuck into the compression post. This prevents it from slipping out.

A good size eye screw was secured into the block with epoxy. The Pekabe block was tied to that with 200lb test braided line. There is no need for a retrieval system as the entire block and rod can come out very easily for any repairs. In fact, it is easier to make repairs than with a retrieval line.

The weight of the rod and block are really not much more than a fixed turning block.

Joe Walter #24

by **chatles blume** » Sun Nov 30, 2003 7:44 pm

Tom, spent the day watching some EC-12's down here in Florida, my new home. Is that the boat you bought in Port Washington a few years ago ?

charlie blume

by **MichaelJ2K** » Thu Dec 04, 2003 1:50 pm

I purchased an Ozmun hull with a fiberglass deck I didn't want to rip off. Using a Whirlwind 7.2v winch I routed a continuous loop from the winch, through the stern and forward to the bow. I used Pe-Ka-Be stuff throughout. To get the required distance for the sheets, I mounted them on each side of the boat, attached with a bowsie and the Brawner loop. It works pretty good too. It also allows for some shock absorbtion for those nasty puffs.
Mike

by **Tom Causin** » Mon Dec 15, 2003 5:13 pm

Yes it is Charlie,
I'me taking my everlovin sweet time in getting the 12 in the water. I've also had a pacemaker installed (not in the 12)amd some other stuff that a 42 year old should not have to deal with!! But I'm looking forward to the 04 season to be a good beginning for me. <blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by charlie blume</i>

Tom, spent the day watching some EC-12's down here in Florida, my new home. Is that the boat you bought in Port Washington a few years ago ?

charlie blume
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

Tom Causin
Ashburn Model Yacht Club

by **ed atkinson** » Tue Apr 20, 2004 12:48 pm

trying to figure out the shape of the turning block, i went to the local walmarts($1) and bought some childrens playdough. i then wrapped it in saran wrap and tied it with some string .then i squeezed it in the bow and when i pulled out it gave me a good idea of the shape of the bow block

The forward turning block

The forward turning block

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