U-Bolt for Turning Block

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U-Bolt for Turning Block

Postby pgfaini » Wed Dec 30, 2009 5:41 pm

I'm planning on mounting turning blocks with my fairleads. I'm going to use SailEtc threaded Acetron (Actel?)fairleads (10mm deck hole), and fabricate simple L brackets to hold the blocks, attaching them with mini, about 2-56, U-bolts. Don't care for the Pekabe units, too many parts, and brass aperture for the sheet. Anybody know where I can get these small U-bolts, to save me from making them myself? I've also thought of just removing the bail from the block and just running a wire through the block and bracket, and twisting it, or using a cotter pin instead of a U-bolt. Anybody done this?

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Postby s vernon » Thu Dec 31, 2009 1:02 pm

See Rick's post.
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s vernon
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Postby Rick West » Thu Dec 31, 2009 2:47 pm

If you are building from scratch a new boat, internally attached sheetline routing and parts are out and System Board is in. Easy to build, easy maintenance and just a few minutes to replace.

Also think friction.

The only substitute I have found for small U bolts are same pad eyes.

...94 [8D]
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Rick West
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Postby Chuck Luscomb » Thu Dec 31, 2009 3:06 pm

Hi Paul,

If you are looking for a way to do this without using U bolts, I have done it in the following way.

Take the Shackle off the single Pekebe block and sandwitch the block at a 45 degree angle between two squares of 1/16" G-10 or basswood. Run a bolt through the basswood and block head and tighten in place. Take another square of baswood or G-10 and drill a clearance hole in the center for you sheet guide. Now glue the block/basswood assembly to the square with the clearnace hole so that the block faces fwd to accept the sheet and allows the sheet to exit through the deck. I use CA. Once you have the block centered, you can trim the corner of the basswood almost to the block to create a fair lead and removing anything the sheet might get snagged on. Now glue it to the underside of the deck. Job done.

It takes me about 20 min to build and install this part.

Hope this helps,

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Postby pgfaini » Thu Dec 31, 2009 7:21 pm

Chuck, Thanks for the tip. The boat is an old Dumas, and I'm working with the deck attached, so a wood bracket would be difficult to position. I've ordered a 3' length of 2-56 threaded rod, and will make my own U-bolts. I'm planning on an angle bracket held by the fairlead nut, and attaching the block to that.

Rick, I'm upgrading the Dumas #614, which had a non-proportional swing arm sail winch and rudder servo.(Old steel case Futaba pulse transmitter) I've fabricated an .090" systems board, exactly like the one on the web site, except I'm using a deck block on the jib trim servo. Due to the narrow Dumas ballast block, I'm mounting it on thwarts with 10-24 brass inserts, and captive SS Allen screws. The thwarts will be glassed to the bondo shelves that held the original plywood system board. With the thick Dumas hull, I don't think this should be a problem. You can expect more questions when I attempt to program the RMG sail winch!:>)

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