Removal/replacement of foam sandwich deck on hull

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Removal/replacement of foam sandwich deck on hull

Postby s vernon » Sat Mar 28, 2009 12:13 pm

Let's say a foam sandwich deck got treated badly and got a crack. Are there ideas about how it might be possible to peel it off the hull?

I think I read somewhere that set/hardened epoxy can be defeated by high temperature. I tried to search for that fact, but could not find it. How high? It seems like these hulls will stand quite a bit of high temperature when you pour a ballast in them.

I have pretty good luck just pealing/breaking my epoxy apart on hulls. It holds like a son of a gun, but can be peeled or mostly peeled and then chisled from the deck flange in some stubborn spots.

I peeled a deck off from transom to bow on an old hull. I was curious what the bare hull would weigh without the heavy fiberglass deck. World's worst EC12 hull - 4 lbs even - just the bare hull. That one won't be being built up for regattas or even for Saturdays.

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Postby Albert Stall » Sat Mar 28, 2009 7:46 pm

Scott,

If it's the hull I'm thinking about, wasn't that made by RMD Marine and if yes, call or write him. I'm sure he has the quick answer.

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Postby greerdr » Sun Mar 29, 2009 5:21 pm

Who made that hull?

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Postby s vernon » Sun Mar 29, 2009 6:53 pm

Bob,

It is not a current or even any well known manufacturer, I believe, but it was a registered boat. Sail number 515. Oldie. It had a lead shot and epoxy ballast and one of those antique big heavy box arm winches. Also a wooden mast/booms and single penel dacron sails. Deck weighs 1 1/2 lbs. Gel coat top and unfinished bottom for the deck.

Unique hatch area. 12 1/2 inch long opening. Wood sheer strips rather than a lip for the deck to sit on.

The AMYA sticker and maybe hull info is on the bottom of the hatch cover which is currently misplaced. No marks in the hull. I thought it was worth buying with 2 radios for a cheap price many years ago, but not now when it turns out to be such a heavy hull.

Congrats on your finish at St. Pete.


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Postby DBrawner » Sun Mar 29, 2009 7:05 pm

Scott,
I am a little late to be of any help. The only time I've had to remove a fiberglass deck, I sat the boat out overnight in freezing weather. The next morning I separated the deck from the hull at the bow with a chisel and then tore the whole deck off like a bandaid. It made a terrible sound but it worked.

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Postby s vernon » Sun Mar 29, 2009 8:26 pm

Dave,

Thanks. Never too late. No one does anything fast in repairing EC12s. humor.

I thought that might be the experience of other people besides me. It is scary, but it comes apart. And what do you have to lose?

Maybe my friend has a big freezer in his garage or knows someone in the meat packing business. Spring and warm night are here - maybe that is what you meant by too late.

I made a cutout near the stern on mine then pulled/peeled - same difference I suppose.

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Postby geeks2you » Sun May 03, 2009 9:03 pm

As much as I hate to have to type this, it is about to become a personal experience for me. The real question is can you get an RMD deck off without destroying it if you have cracked the epoxy seam near the port shroud rack mount?

It seems that I may not have handled a rounding this weekend in the high gusty winds in Raleigh... Nothing like major breaks in the first regatta!

Eric

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Postby greerdr » Mon May 04, 2009 5:20 pm

Why not repair Vs a whole deck strip?

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Postby geeks2you » Tue May 05, 2009 7:11 am

There are concerns that the epoxy was not mixed with the correct filler materials. I spoke to Bob D. about options and he feels there is a good chance to get the deck off. I am waiting to get my digital calipers so I can take all the measurements that I will need for later before I even think of trying to separate anything.

On a side note, anyone got a spreadsheet of "fast" Ozmun hull station beam measurements? If I end up putting on a new deck I am going to take the opportunity to retune the hull profile with the best measurements I can find.

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Postby greerdr » Fri May 08, 2009 9:16 pm

I sail an old Ozmun(hull#69);Boat#1046 in New England.She holds her own-especially in a blow and down-wind.She is very "hippy"-meaning broad abeam-at Stations 36-38.I'll give you the actual numbers when I meet up with the boat again at Nor'easter Regatta.
There are some fine old Ozmuns around the fleets;look at #633 sailed by Bruce Walton.He won the New England Cup in 2008 to give you a perspective on how well these boats can sail.Give her another life.Sail her high and fast!
An exacting engineer as yourself is just the ticket to revive a dowager to contender.

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Postby geeks2you » Mon May 11, 2009 7:02 am

I would love the measurements of the "hippy" setup. I have done quite a bit of searching and it does not seem that there are many published at all. I have contacted a few of the Oz owners that I can find to get some measurements as a possible way of creating a database of "good" setups for the hull.

On a side note, I got my hands on the epoxy for the hull repairs this week, so I should know her fate before week's end.

Eric

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by greerdr</i>

I sail an old Ozmun(hull#69);Boat#1046 in New England.She holds her own-especially in a blow and down-wind.She is very "hippy"-meaning broad abeam-at Stations 36-38.I'll give you the actual numbers when I meet up with the boat again at Nor'easter Regatta.
There are some fine old Ozmuns around the fleets;look at #633 sailed by Bruce Walton.He won the New England Cup in 2008 to give you a perspective on how well these boats can sail.Give her another life.Sail her high and fast!
An exacting engineer as yourself is just the ticket to revive a dowager to contender.

R.C.Greer
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

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Postby greerdr » Tue May 12, 2009 9:09 pm

Contact Bruce Walton who sails in the New England series for some numbers.He won 2008.

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Postby geeks2you » Wed May 13, 2009 8:27 am

So I wanted to take a second and answer Scott's actual question, Can a Glass deck be removed.....

Yup!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/theolsons/3527631906/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/theolsons/3526804347/

No heat or anything needed, just SLOWLY popped the seams all the way around. The bow was the hardest due to the way the deck is layed up, but thanks to Bob Dudinsky letting me know where to be careful, I was able to get it off with absolutely no damage to hull or deck. Guess I'm going to need some narrow measurements after all for the Ozmun.

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